Erotic Temples of Khajuraho

Legend: The creators of Khajuraho claimed descent from the moon. The legend that describes the origin of this great dynasty is a fascinating one: Hemavati, the beautiful young daughter of a Brahmin priest was seduced by the moon god while bathing in the river one evening. The child born of this union between a mortal and a god was a son, Chandravarman. Harassed by society, the unwed mother sought refuge in the dense forest of Central India where she was both mother and guru to her young son. The boy grew up and founded the great Chandela dynasty. When he was established as a ruler, he had a dream of his mother, imploring him to build temples that would reveal human passions, and in doing so bring about a realisation of the emptiness of human desire.

Chandravarman began the construction of the first of the temples. Successive rulers added to the fast growing complex.85 temples were built within 100 years (950 A.D.-1050A.D) In the temple architecture of India, the Khajuraho complex remains unique. The temples are magnificent in form and richly carved. Today, of the original 85, only 22 have survived the ravages of time.

THE TEMPLES

The architectural style of the Khajuraho temples is very different from the temple prototype of that period. Each stands, on a high masonry platform. Combined with the upward direction of the structure, which is further accentuated by vertical projections, the total effect is one of grace and lightness. Each of the chief compartments has its own roof, grouped in such a way that the highest is in the centre, the lowest over the portico, a triumph of skill and imagination in recreating the rising peaks of a range. The temples of Khajuraho are divided into three geographical groups: Western, Eastern and Southern.

The Western group is certainly the best known, because it is to this group that the largest and most typical Khajuraho temple belongs: the Kandariya Mahadev. Perfectly symmetrical, it soars 31 km high. Celestial beings, lovers, serenading musicians -. The very stone seems to have taken on the living, breathing quality of the carved figures. The outer walls have three horizontal panels showing deities of the Hindu pantheon, and groups of lovers, a pageant of sensuous imagery vibrantly alive.

Also in the western group is the Chaunsat Yogini, the only granite temple in the Khajuraho group. Dedicated to Kali, it is also unique in being quadrangular in plan. This has the earliest surviving shrine of the group dated to 900 AD. Another Kali Temple (originally dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi Jagadambe Temple. North of it facing eastward to the rising sun, is the Chitragupta Temple, dedicated to the Sun God, after Surya. driving a seven-horsed chariot. The group scenes depicted are equally spectacular: royal processions, elephant-fights, hunting scenes, and group dances.

Similar in plan to the Kandariya Mahadev is the Vishwanath Temple. Lions flank the northern steps and elephants the southern, leading up to the temple. Among the Vaishnavite temples in the Khajuraho group; the finest is the Lakshmana Temple. The boar incarnation also appears in another Vaishnavite shrine, the Varaha Temple. The statue here is a mammoth 9 ft high. The Khajuraho temples are no longer living places of worship, with a few exceptions. The Matangeswara Temple for example is still a place of worship. Dedicated to Shiva it has an 8ft high lingam. South of this temple is the open air Archaeological Museum, which has a beautiful displayed collection of statues and friezes collected from the area: the remains of long vanished temples.

Hindu and Jain temples make up the Eastern Group, which lies close to the Khajuraho village. The largest Jain temple, Parswanath, is in this group. Within, the sanctum is a throne, which faces a bull: emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The actual image of Parswanath from which the temple derives its name was installed as recently as 1860. The other Jain temple in this group is the Ghantai Temple. Particularly, arresting are the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed Jain goddess riding on a winged Garuda. North of Parswanatha is the more modestly sized Adinatha Temple.

The three Hindu temples in the Eastern Group are the Brahma, Vamana and Javari Temples. Double rows of apsaras or celestial nymphs, adorn the outer walls of the Vamana temple. A variety of sensuous attitudes: languid, provocative, mischievously inviting, give credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's erotica were to test the devotees who came to worship their gods at the temples.

5 km from the Khajuraho village lies the Southern Group of temples. The fine Chaturbhuj Temple in this group has an intricately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum. Duladeo Temple, another of the southern group, is a little away from the road to the Jain group of temples. Though remains of temples belonging to the Khajuraho group have been discovered at Jatkari, 3 km away and even at Maribag in Rewa. If the temples of Khajuraho can be said to have a theme, it is woman. A celebration of woman and her myriad moods and facets. Writing letters. applying kohl to her eyes.dancing with joyous abandon. playing with her child. Woman - innocent, coquettish, smiling - infinitely seductive, infinitely beautiful. Depicted in a wealth of detail, sharply etched, sculpted with consummate artistry

Access: From Delhi it is 596 kms by road. Shatabdi Express connects Jhansi to Delhi. From Jhansi it is 176kms. Non-stop deluxe buses connect Jhansi to Khajuraho. Indian Airlines connects daily.