Hidden away in the well-watered backcountry, south of the River Brahmani, 65 Km northeast of Cuttack is Ratnagiri, one of three ancient Buddhist universities. The literal meaning of Ratnagiri is Jewel Hill. Atop a hill overlooking the River Keluo, this is a best place for those who know about Vajrayana Buddhism, and they can find out more. When the Chinese chronicler Hiuen T'sang visited the university in 639 AD, it had already been a major Buddhist centre for at least two hundred years.

It is believed that the cell which holds an image of Buddha, originally contained a Bodhisattva with his Tara spouse, a theme which is frequently depicted in Vajrayan religious art.

Serious students of Buddhism should be delighted with the enigmas of the little known gem of Ratnagiri.

What to see

The focal point of the sight is the enormous Stupa at the top of the hill. A stone casket containing gold and silver artefacts, believed to be actual relics of the Buddha, was found inside it during excavations in the 1970s.

Nearby, just below the Stupa, lie two well-preserved monasteries. The larger of the pair, dating from the 7th century has a paved courtyard surrounded by cells and a beautifully carved doorway made from local blue-green chlorite stone. Inside the shrine there is a large seated Buddha. The tiny carvings are a joyful celebration of the senses. A dancing girl stamps her feet, a lissom lady of the court drapes her arm around a serving maid, there is even a woman sitting cross-legged in meditation. A woman in such a posture, is also the central figure in certain tantric rites.

How to get there

By Air: Nearest airport is Bhubaneswar, 100 km.

By Rail: From Cuttack Railway station, it is only 70 km.

By Road: Buses and taxis are available from Bhubaneswar and Cuttack.

Where to stay

Panthasala, OTDC Hostel, Ratnagiri and other hotels in Cuttack.